The country of Chile has certain advantages when it comes to making wine. It is a long, slender country in South America, cordoned off on the east by the imposing Andes, an impenetrable desert to the north and the Antarctic to the south. The sea to the west barricades the last frontier as also brings in cool streams that ensure winter and spring rainfall followed by warm, bright, cloud-free summers. So cut off is this winemaking wonder that even that deadly louse, Phylloxera, the one that destroyed a clear majority of European vineyards, wasn?t able to penetrate it. Any vintner in any part of the world would instantly recognise the potential such a climate and location can hold.
It is one reason why they don?t discuss vintage much for, barring slight variations, each year is as promising as the previous. However, the idea of tasting vintages back to the 90s is still an inviting proposition and this is exactly what was on offer when I was invited to a special tasting of the wines from the famed Chilean house of Montes. What made it even more special was that Senor Aurelio Montes was in town himself to guide us through this magical journey. I guess if I were to mention that I was fortunate enough to attend this not just once, but twice in a span of three days, then I am guilty of showing off. The first event was held at one of my favourite restaurants, The Travertino at The Oberoi which, I maintain, is the most under-rated fine dining restaurant in the city. The food, the ambience and the service are unparalleled and utterly understated.
The second time around, I was at the Orient Express, Delhi?s favourite fine-dining destination, where, post a subtle refurbishing, the place is back?the piano, the crooning silhouette, the white-gloved service?seamlessly classy since it first began.
At both the restaurants, the food was exquisitely paired with the wines and while Travertino had a more Italian accent (I would expect nothing lesser of chef Davide), the Orient Express went for more French-inspired continental repast. All in all, the wines were delicately paired and chefs ensured that food never masked the true stars of the evening.
Now, the really important bit?the wines. Montes is easily one of South America?s most successful wineries. They were also, coincidentally, the first wine to be imported into India back in 1995 when Ronnie Lobo, owner of Tres restaurant in Delhi, started the process of establishing world-class wine lists in the country. Today, Montes continues to sell, both in retail as also in hotels, and the strength of its admirers is only growing.
Here is what I like about them: They are (a) deliciously balanced wines and (b) exceptionally well-priced. That pretty much sums it up. Sure, they aren?t the only brand serving up this combination, but they are one of the few and extremely consistent at that. Their basic range of wines is great to sip as an aperitif or for pairing with mild dishes, while the Alpha range is a great match for anything grilled, charred or even tandoor-ed (in India, that should be a verb).
Finally, for those who are not so easily impressed by what ?everyone? drinks, Senor Montes introduced us to the newest addition to the family?the ?Taita? (meaning the respect of the experience of the elders, aka savoir-faire)?a $300-plus wine that has been awarded one of the highest scores of any South American red ever!
All in all, the wines are out there, so don?t just take my word for it. Or better yet, grab the phone and make a booking. Orient Express and Travertino are both happily standing by.
The writer is a sommelier
